mazda 323 sp20 problems

The Mazda 323 SP20 is a plucky old thing, but two decades on, the gremlins have formed a union. Here are the usual suspects owners report:

• Ignition hiccups: tired coil packs/leads causing misfires and rough idle.
• Oil leaks from the rocker cover gasket; occasional weepy cam/crank seals.
• Cooling woes: cracked radiator end tanks and lazy thermostats leading to overheating.
• Suspension wear: front control arm bushes, sway-bar links, and strut tops clunking.
• Intake/idle drama: dirty EGR or IAC valves causing hunting idle or stalling.
• Driveline fatigue: worn engine mounts and CV joints; heavy or shuddery clutches.
• Electrical niggles: window regulators and central locking glitches.
• Rust watch: rear wheel arches and hatch edges, especially coastal cars.

Timing belt is due roughly every 100,000 km—skip it and your wallet throws a tantrum. Budget a little for age-related fixes and get a pre-purchase inspection from someone who actually owns tools. Do that, and you’ll have a simple, cheap-to-keep hatch that still fancies a backroad.